After some research, I felt this tour combined many of the major places I wanted to visit, and overall seemed to pack more in than other tour companies offerings for similar duration. It was a little more expensive, but the hotels appeared more premium, and the airline, 'Cathay Pacific', is regularly voted one of the top 10 airlines to fly with, so that was a contributing factor too.  This would be my first trip to Japan so I was keen to learn more about the culture, the food and the history.

One thing to be aware of which is explained to an extent in the JY documentation is that your main luggage does not go with you on the bullet train.  It is transported separately by road. JY state you should aim for a maximum of 20kg luggage weight.  Keep in mind that on Cathay the limit is 23kg for economy, and you will take some things in an overnight bag on the train with you it should be possible to reach. I don't think you need to worry if your suitcase is over the 20kg target either or match the recommended dimensions which were only advised in the holiday documents sent a week or two before departure. I packed a small rucksack into my hold luggage and used that and a cabin bag on the days separated from the suitcase to have plenty of space for clothes, camera equipment & purchases etc.

As part of the tour, a lounge pass is supposed to be included at Heathrow. Sadly for our group of economy passengers we were individually emailed early in the week of departure to advise that the lounge ticket could not be honoured due to availability.  This was disappointing as I believe a lounge access is a good ice-breaker to meet the group in a relaxed environment.  So, I bought my own lounge ticket a day or so after receiving the news that JY were not providing lounge access and instead would provide a small refund. :(

Prior to arrival at the airport, I registered an account on the Cathay Pacific website/app. As I was flying out economy, for a fee you could select your seat in advance to check-in opening.  The seating plan showed the ones available, which were very few in option, and the price point was not worth it in my opinion, so I waited until it was free 48 hours before departure. In some circumstances, when it is a group booking you may not be able to check-in online, you may only be able to do so at the airport.  I may have been able to check-in online as I had a custom booking (returning premium economy).  For my outbound economy flights, I just left it as the default selection, which turned out I was sitting in the middle of a 3, with Just You-er on one side and a random on my other. For my flight from Hong Kong to Tokyo I was not near any Just You-er that I was aware of.  So it might be a bit of pot luck who you sit with.

For my return flights, as I upgraded with JY, I selected my seats a few months prior to departure.  I don't think it is possible to upgrade your flight directly with Cathay as it is a group booking. When I tried to check if there was any upgrade options online for my outbound Heathrow flight the site stated it was not possible to upgrade with that booking. 

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Having checked in online, once at Heathrow Terminal 3 I just needed to validate my passport and print my bag tag using the dedicated kiosks for Cathay. The Heathrow website displays the check-in locations of each of the airlines so you know where to head to.  Even if you have the boarding pass on your mobile, I recommend to print out the passes at the kiosk as a backup. I had also registered my customs form for Japan entry online in advance too ( search for Visit Japan Web), and taken a screenshot with the QR code. I placed the bag tag around my case and headed to the bag drop-off.  This was the point where I first met our tour manager, Sarah W. who was holding up a JY sign. After a brief introduction, Sarah was able to provide a hard copy of the customs form (which I think she collected on her previous tour a few weeks earlier) to fill out if you hadn't done it online already.  One lady on our tour said their QR code didn't work in Japan immigration, so they were relieved they had filled out a form as a backup.  You can be issued with the form to fill out at the airport too so all is not lost if you don't take one.  

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After dropping hold luggage off T3, it was over to security.  I was surprised that it was still the case you had to take out electronic items and liquids from your cabin bag and place them in the tray to be scanned. My local airport on the flight down had already upgraded to Next Generation Security Checkpoint (NGSC) scanners. These scanners allow passengers to keep electronic devices and liquids in your hand baggage during screening, thus saving a bit of time.  Hong Kong and Osaka were equally behind the times it seems! Maybe things will have changed by the time you read this. 

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Security did not take too long and then it was off to the lounge. It had a nice view of the runway and planes on the apron. The staff were attentive and the general ambience was relaxing. I filled out my immigration and customs forms as a backup whilst sipping a G&T from my seating area. Checking the departure board for when my flight began boarding I was soon heading towards the gate.  At the gate was my first observation of the JY baggage tags, and I got speaking to one lady who it turned out would be sitting in the seat next to me on the plane.  She also had upgraded to premium on the return flight which I said might have been opportune as I had an inclination our return flight would have been on one of the upgraded cabins with the Aria suite and so should be better seats! 

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The outbound flight to HKG lasted 11 hours 41 minutes and was largely uneventful.  There was some turbulence over Asia which delayed the breakfast service a bit but nothing major. On the whole the cabin crew could not be faulted for their service.  I didn't manage to sleep on the plane at all. Must have been excitement, not helped by the child next to me leaving on their overhead light whilst they played a videogame on their tablet. Next time I’ll take an eye mask with me!

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Our flight arrived earlier than scheduled on the Sunday morning, 07:27, despite leaving Heathrow late. Once you land in Hong Kong, you make your way from the gate and go through the rigmarole of security again.  Our tour manager made sure to shepherd us to the correct area as the terminal is massive. Even once the plane landed on the runway it must have taken about 10 minutes for it to taxi the gate. We only had a short stopover of around 1.5 hours before our next flight but everything went like clockwork. We didn't have to wait long at the gate to board our next flight which would be a flight time of around 4 hours to Narita airport. Our flight was 25 minutes late leaving HKG, but made time up in the air with a flight time of 3.5 hours. Again, the service from the cabin crew was exemplary.

We would land around 2pm at Narita airport, but it took us a bit longer to get through immigration than anticipated (when scanning the QR on your mobile hold it up above the reader not placed on top!). We were reunited with our luggage and went through customs which was very quick. Our Japanese guide Mike, was introduced to the group at this point and then we would venture outside to get picked up by the coach. We didn't have to wait too long, as the coach driver parks in a holding area and drives to the collection point once called. It was now around 4pm and the weather was pleasant at around 18C I reckoned.    I had checked advanced weather forecasts and it was looking promising weather for the trip in the main, but rain on some days.  Make sure you have a couple of pairs of comfy shoes amongst the essentials as there is a fair bit of walking on this tour. Wearing layers helps as the weather proved to be changeable and some days started cloudy but then really brightened up later. I took a small umbrella which I used one morning, but other than that we were blessed with good weather on our trip.  

The driver loaded the luggage onto the coach and the time was around 4:15pm when we set off from the airport. I believe normal protocol is that you are taken to the hotel first to drop your luggage off and then go out for your welcome dinner.  However, as we were a bit behind schedule we would go directly to the mall where the restaurant was.  The journey was around an hour to get to the Aqua City Mall from the airport.  When we arrived there was still a lot of activity in the area.  A fan park for the Formula One event which took place earlier in the day was disbanding but still many people about. The walk from the coach to the restaurant took at least 10 minutes, as we stopped to take photos of the Gundam statue (which I hadn't heard of but apparently it was created before Transformers "Robots in disguise"), cherry blossom and the Statue of Liberty!!!! ( a small-scale replica).

The spring evening breeze helped keep me awake, but i wasn't feeling that fresh. I had been up since 0730 UK time on Saturday and it was now approximately 25 hours later.  There are toilets in the mall just outside the restaurant, so if you bring a spare top in your hand luggage you can always change if you don't get to stop off at the hotel on the way.

The Yorimichi restaurant laid out a buffet for us and were accommodating. There were other diners there too but we had our own seating area where the food and drinks were served.  There was beer, wine and soft drinks available, and after the initial round of food was cleared, the hosts brought out plenty more. One plate of food and one beer was enough for me though, I just wanted to rest. Food served included fish, salad, breaded chicken and i think they even brought out chips for us westerners! 

As the sun had set as we finished eating, I recommend you go out onto the restaurant veranda to take photos of Tokyo bay and the Rainbow bridge.  With the lights on, it looked spectacular. There were a couple of Yakatabune boats sailing in the bay which could be seen from that vantage point. In a reversal of perspective the next evening, we would be on one of those boats looking back towards Aqua City. 

With the meal over, we would navigate our way out of the Mall and walk about 5 minutes to meet up with the coach.  The drive to the Monterey hotel would be about 20 minutes. When I had initially booked, the Tokyo hotel on the JY website was Grand Nikko Tokyo Daiba which I had been eagerly looking forward to as it was a 5 star and looked to have amazing views over the Tokyo bay.  The Hotel Monterey Akasaka was quoted as a 3.5 star so the accommodation was a bit less luxurious. However, the Monterey hotel was not a let-down.  The reception is themed on the style of a London townhouse and looked very grand with a large chandelier in the entrance lobby. A further plus point is it is more central so easier to get to places. So don't be anxious if your accommodation is changed after your booking, from what I have seen the hotels are always to a high standard and the staff attentive.

We gathered in the foyer for our room keys. I think they were distributed according to the floor you were on starting with the lowest. It would turn out I was one of the later ones to get my key as I was on the 9th floor. If you are in a room at the front, you will get a view over towards a park area. I was not so fortunate, the view from my window was very much of concrete and aircon units. But any doubts about the Monterey Hotel beforehand were quickly dispersed upon arrival, I was very impressed. They give you pyjamas you can borrow, and there was a tea making machine, fridge, plenty of bottles of water etc. The double bed was large and comfy. My first port of call though was to have a bath.  Of all the hotels on the trip, I think this bath/shower combo was one of the best. It was shorter than a UK bath, so you are more or less sitting up in it, but it is very deep.  I had my first experience of a Japanese toilet, and I only wish I had one at home. You have a heated seat, and various water jets can be activated. The Japanese certainly have a way to pamper oneself.

It would be around 9:30pm went I went to bed, and I managed almost unbroken sleep until 6am save for waking up briefly. There is a small torch on the bed headboard which I thought that was just a thoughtful touch if you need to get up in the night, but later the tour director advised there was a genuine purpose, the torch is in case of an earthquake and all the power goes out.

Breakfast was served from 6am, there was a lot of choice, and the surroundings felt very grand.   I would recommend getting the chef to prepare a fresh omelette for you, as by accounts from other diners the scrambled eggs from the buffet were not so hot.

After breakfast, the group met in the foyer around 09:15, and Sarah (tour director) explained the itinerary for the day. We would be issued with printed slips of paper covering the next few days over the course of the trip. Sarah distributed the audio headsets for everyone (30) and a pair of batteries each which I presume she lugged all the way from the UK. She even brought spare batteries too! The earpiece was a great way to listen to commentary as you walked along taking in the sights provided you were in the vicinity of the signal. It might be common practice on tours but I hadn't used such a setup before as hadn’t been on a tour in a while. Sarah advised she would create a WhatsApp group so we could share photos etc. If you don't already have WhatsApp, download it in the UK before you head out or you can download off the hotel Wi-Fi if needed.  WhatsApp proved very useful for one member of the group who got a bit lost at one point and was able to post in the group chat to notify the group.

I'd say this was the longest day on the trip, so much to see.   We boarded the coach to head to the Tokyo tower, a broadcast tower / tourist attraction.  Styled on the Eifel Tower, from the observation deck you get great views over parts of the city, though in my opinion does not have the romance of the Eiffel tower. I was hoping to catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji and although it was not overcast, it was not visible. Apparently the best times of the year to see Fuji-san from the tower are January & February on crisp clear days.  Up on the 2nd level there are small glass sections in the floor where you can look directly down, which were popular photo opportunities but not to everybody's taste.  There is an area playing a video showing the construction of the tower which is informative. It cycles through various languages so you just have to time it right for English.  There are souvenir shops, so plenty to pass the time. This was the first location where we saw Tokyo Banana cake!

Then it is back on the coach for a trip over to the Imperial Palace which is the primary residence of the Emperor and Empress of Japan.  I think we arrived about 11:30am.  You don't get anywhere near but do see part of the grounds and moat.  It was a good place for a group photo, but probably my least favourite site to visit. Be on your guard for cyclists who do use the pavement, and it is best you give them the right of way. Being Japan they are very polite and will stop if you don’t see them though. 

We'd be back on the coach by 12:30 and heading to the stunning Asakusa Sensoji Temple, though I believe most of the site is reconstructed after WWII. You take all your belongings with you from the bus.  This was the busiest site we visited on tour. After a brief tour of the area with the guide, you are left to free roam as you wish.  The main thoroughfare has many stalls where you can buy food souvenirs and those Japanese Fortune slips which you can leave the bad luck behind.  I quickly deviated onto one of the Nakamise-dori side routes which weren’t so thronging with people. The covered market area has many shops and places to eat.  There is a lot to see, so be prepared to do a bit of walking. I found a nice cafe called Asakusa Kaede where I bought a coffee and sandwich (They sell whiskey's too) and could enjoy a nice place to relax away from the hullabaloo.  There will be quite a lot of eating on the boat later that evening so I suggest just to have a light lunch, but bear in mind the dinner is very Japanese in style, i.e fish.  The Rickshaw groups were at 3 set times for our tour.  I was in the last group and so I needed to be at the Tourist Information meeting point at 15:45.  Once at the meeting point, Sarah escorted us to the Rickshaw venue, which was only a 3 minute walk away.  There were 10 people in total, with 2 per Rickshaw.  

The journey in the Rickshaw takes about 20 minutes, and it is a pleasant experience to be pulled around and it feels very safe.  The Rickshaw driver did their best to enter into conversation, and had a good enough grasp of English to not be overawed by different accents.  They provided little anecdotes about the different buildings as we passed, and gave an opportunity to stop and have a photo with the cherry blossom behind us.  Although tipping is generally not a done thing in Japan, the Rickshaw driver is very deserving of at least 500 Yen each.  I found I had way too many coins at the end of my trip, so this is a good chance to relieve yourself of some.

The tour director was waiting to welcome us back, and many others had joined too as we were the last cohort.  After we dismounted the Rickshaw it was then off on a pleasant walk to the Yakatabune boat cruise up the Sudima River to Tokyo Bay. The walk will take about 15 minutes, possibly a bit longer as you stop to take photos.  It is lined with Cherry trees which still displayed much of their blossom at the time.  I was at the boat embarkation point at about 1700 hrs, and I think there was a wait till about 17:15 to get on the boat.  You need to take your shoes off to enter the seating area as it is a Tatami floor, but you are provided with a plastic bag to put your shoes in which you take to your seat.  On some boats you kneel on the floor, but for us there were small seats.  Be careful traversing inside the boat as the ceiling is low so if you are reasonably tall you need to stoop.

The food provided initially is in a small tray with a ceramic dish which contains raw fish, and some side dishes.  There was salmon, tuna and a white fish which I cannot recall the type, but all were delicious.  A google search will give you an idea of all that was provided. Note of caution, try the Wasabi in small doses, it is a very strong palate cleanser, it will clear your sinuses too. The staff serving were very good, they kept the food coming, including a variety of tempura vegetables and fish.   The drinks are all included for various tastes including plum wine, beer, lemon sour, soft drinks, regular wine just ask when you want more. Be careful not to overdo it if you plan to go up on deck in Tokyo Bay to take photos or get fresh air though! You will need to put your shoes on if you go up on deck, and then take them off again to go to the inside seating area.  One thing I didn’t realise at the time was that you could slide a window open from your seat thus you could take pictures without getting the reflection from the lights inside the cabin. You will certainly get some nice pictures especially at dusk.

The boat trip is very smooth, and once the food is finished, it is on with the karaoke ("empty orchestra").  The tour director kicked things off, and the local guide gave a rendition of a Japanese song.   Many in the group gave it a try, with the results more entertaining than others.  Overall it was an very enjoyable experience, and it felt it was over too soon. I think the trip lasts roughly 2.5 hours, and we were back on shore around 19:45.  The bus was waiting a short distance away to take us back to the hotel. This was one of the few buses on the trip which didn’t have the additional foldaway seat which narrows the aisle you walk through on the bus.  We didn’t get the same bus the next day sadly.

On the journey back, the tour guide offered to arrange taxis from the hotel for anyone who wanted to go to see the Shibuya crossing.  We got back to the Hotel around 08:20pm, and it was a quick trip to the room to drop some things off and then back to meet in the foyer.  I think 3 taxis were booked for 0830, and each taxi could hold 4 passengers. The journey was about 15 minutes, and cost was between 1600 and 2400 yen which was very reasonable. I think if you get a taxi after 10pm it costs more.  Getting a taxi back was just a process of finding the nearby taxi rank near the railway station, and using the hotel card to show the driver the address where to take us to, no Japanese required!

It is a shame that the crossing is not part of the included tour, and I would have liked another day in Tokyo, even if it was just free time to explore as you wish as it felt there was so much to see and this was really the first full day in this vibrant city. We got back just about 10pm, and then it was a case of packing up your suitcase and getting your overnight bag ready. You could leave your suitcase down at the collection area in the foyer that night, or you could take it early in the morning.

Our cases were still there in the morning awaiting collection when we were boarding the bus at 07:45 and it was possible to get access to them to add/remove something quickly if urgent. The coach would take us to the Fujisan World Heritage Center near Fujioshida which was about 1.5 hour journey from the hotel.  On the way we were starting to get glimpses of snow covered Mount Fuji, the great weather was making the experience all the more magical.  I think the left-hand side of the coach will give the best views on approach, but certainly once you are at the Heritage Center you will get a great viewpoint. There is a cafe at the Heritage Center, and a video to watch explaining how Mount Fuji was formed by multiple volcanoes.

After time in the gift shop it was then back on the coach to the main part of Fujioshida to visit a mall where you can buy lunch and eat on the coach. The tour director had mentioned to us a delicacy called 'Curry doughnuts' and the supermarket here may have stocked them. I think we departed around 11am with the next stop being Lake Yamanaka.

From where the bus stopped it was a short walk along the side of the lake to get more views of Mount Fuji. There was a small pier you can walk on and could see some large carp swimming around.  I recall a lot of "lake flies" which are harmless but fortunately it was not too long before we were back on the coach.

The coach was next heading to Sounzan Station to allow us to connect with the Hakone Ropeway.  The driver accidentally took a wrong turn along the way, and we ended up in some rural residential road with very narrow width.  Upon realising the error the driver attempted multiple 3-point turns, and then when that failed reversed all the way back up the road having to stop and move forward each time traffic came up behind. It felt like an age to get on the right track but may have only been about 30 minutes!

Upon arrival at Sounzan Station , the group were able to wander around the facility for a short time and visit the shop. Upstairs in Sounzan Station has “cu-mo Hakone”, a terrace where you can view Gora City and also enjoy a free foot spa from the Gora Onsen hot spring.  You sit on a row of seats and the water is in a trough below the knee. I think only one or two tried it in our group, but said it was very relaxing.

Next it was onto the Hakone Ropeway transport from Sounzan to Owakudani. It takes about 15 minutes when traveling from Sounzan to Owakudani. You might get views of Mt. Fuji and Lake Ashi midway between  Sounzan Station and Owakudani Station I couldn't recall. What you will see is the desolate mountainside covered by plumes of smoke which produce a distinctive sulphur smell which is different to everything else you see on tour.We got to Owakudani station and it was very windy. It was not that pleasant to walk around outside due to the wind, and there were workman doing some renovations to the walking area at the station so it was dusty.  Everyone headed inside to the shop and cafe which are popular with visitors. Some bought the famous Owakudani Black Eggs, known as kuro-tamago. They are regular chicken eggs boiled in the natural hot springs of Owakudani. The sulphur in the water turns the eggshells black, and local lore suggests that eating one of these eggs can add seven years to your life.

Sadly due to high wind speed, the ropeway section from Owakudani to Togendai was closed, so the bus was contacted to come and collect us and take us directly to the boarding point for the Lake Ashi cruise. It was a shame as when on that part of the route to Togendai, you can enjoy the views of Mt. Fuji and Lake Ashi. 

So once at Togendai-ko we queue and get one of the "pirate ships".  We head to Hakonemachi-ko which is approximately 25 minutes away. There are some refreshments available onboard, but as it is a short cruise you may not get time. There are various "pirate" ships and they each have a capacity betwen 500-600 passengers. Due to the strong wind I believe a section of the route between Hakonemachi-ko and Motohakone-ko was cancelled, which didnt affect us anyway as we were due to disembark at Hakonemachi-ko. My understanding is that it is the routes from Hakonemachi-ko to Motohakone-ko and the return leg Motohakone-ko to Togendai is where you get the onboard views of Mount Fuji. If someone knows for sure they can confirm this.   There is seating available on levels 1 & 2 of the boat but it will be quite full. First class passengers have their own seating area and viewing area.  I believe your 2nd class ticket gets you access to the outside deck but I didn’t try it and can't say for certain you don’t see Mount Fuji on that part of the cruise. I had seen plenty of Mount Fuji already that day, so wasn't too downbeat about it. There are toilets on the boat but limited in number. One thing I noticed is that in some public toilets there is a lack of drying facilities, so might be worth carrying a hand towel with you or tissues.

The bus would collect us near to the disembarkation point of the boat, and we were soon heading to Atami, a scenic coastal town offering stunning views of the Sagami Sea.  The tour director got the driver to stop off on route for one last view of Mount Fuji and then we were quickly back on the road to the hotel.  Again, the hotel was different to the one advertised when I made my original booking. 

Originally it was Hotel New Akao Royal Wing when I made my booking but then a while later on the website I saw the hotel listed changed to Hotel Resorpia and this was confirmed once the holiday information documents were sent prior to departure.  The hotel we stayed at was the most basic of the bunch on the trip I'd say.  That said, my hotel room had a lovely tatami floor and small table and futons for dining, and you could even sleep on the tatami floor if you wished for an authentic experience.  Otherwise there are standard beds in the room.  You need to have your room card in the slot as you enter the room to get power in the room as per the norm.

Although the hotel is not as luxurious as others on the trip, the main draw of the hotel is to use the Onsen. Bear in mind you have to be clean of tattoos to use it. I think we arrived back at the hotel around 5pm, so there was time to get bathed either in the bath in your room, or in the Onsen which are separate for male and females as you’d expect.Dinner was to be a banquet meal which was in our own sectioned off area in the Mermaid Convention Hall of the hotel at 7pm. The tour director recommended everyone dress in the Yukata (supplied in the room multiple sizes), which everyone duly did. This saved on getting formal for dinner and might save you some clothes in your overnight bag if storage is tight.   I did feel a bit underdressed but everyone was wearing the same so all were equal.

There were two long rows of tables where our party were seated, and we were completely separate from any other hotel guests.  There was a pop-up bar for us where you could order a drink, you just had to show your room number so it was charged to your room. I bought a bottle of beer, cost just over 1500 Yen so on the premium pricing end. Once seated the staff then brought over the various courses. The food was very nice, similar fare to what was served on the boat the previous night (some raw fish, but I recall beef, tempura prawn, rice bowl and broth).

After dinner, the tour director said the hotel bar was closed today, so it was back to the room to rest after another long day.  If your feet are not tired, I suggest heading up to the top floor where you can exit the hotel and go for a stroll into town.

 If I recall correctly, breakfast is served in a different section to where dinner was but same area of the hotel.  It was busy and there was plenty of variety on offer similar to what was available in the Tokyo hotel, I think there was even some German smoked sausage! After breakfast I got my belongings together and headed down in the lift to reception. Using the kiosk you pay your bill and it is easy to use as the menu can be in English, then check out and hand key back in.

The hotel ran a small number of mini-buses to Atami station for us, where we would board the Bullet train, the Shinkansen. The mini-buses dropped us off around 8:20am. There was a quick stop off at a supermarket for items lunch, then the group congregated at the train platform.  The Shinkansen normal runs like clockwork, so you have a limited time (90 seconds) to get aboard. As a consequence, we were organised into our seating groups of 3 + 2  on the platform in preparation. The right-hand side of the train  ( the 2 seat side in our case)  will give best views of Mount Fuji a short time after departure. We were on the Tokaido version which stops at more stations, so it was just under 3 hours to Kyoto, but time passes very quickly.  Once we arrived in Kyoto, we swapped one local guide for another.  Kyoto is the former imperial capital of Japan and by chance the spelling is an anagram of Tokyo! 

We got a bus and then to the Golden Pavilion. You view the Pavilion from afar, but there is a lovely walk through the gardens, and some souvenir stalls. The weather was warm so I found some shade to eat my Matcha + Vanilla flavoured ice-cream cone.

Then it was back on the bus for our next stop, Heian shrine. This shrine has a relatively short history, dating back just over a hundred & thirty years to 1895. The highlight was walking round the lovely gardens which were enchanting, with small ponds and beautiful trees, some adorned with blossom. 

After about an hour we were back on the coach and heading to the Gion area. This is the Geisha district, known for its traditional architecture, vibrant culture, and historic significance. There was a brief guided walk, then we were given a few hours free time to explore. I enjoyed the overall charm and serenity of the place.  I bought a coffee from the shop and headed down to the Kamo river to sit and take it in.  I was surprised to see that in such a built-up area there were Black Kites in the sky, and on occasion they were swooping down avoiding traffic presumably to catch food.I think it must have been around 17:45 or 18:00 that we were back on the bus and heading to the hotel.  The sun was just setting and by the time we were at the hotel which was about a 15-minute journey, it was fully dark.   

Once in the lobby we could see that our cases were there waiting for us.  We huddled around the bar area and waited to get our room keys. Unfortunately there was a delay in some rooms being ready.  I bought a drink at the bar while we waited, a Matcha Beer, which really hit the spot.   We were given a drink voucher with our keys, and I would use it the next night. The Moxy hotel in my opinion is more of a trendy 'hipster' type of hotel than the others you stay at on the tour. The hotel sign is dayglow pink...  The water is supplied in aluminium cans rather than plastic....  The colours in the room are vibrant.... It has a very artsy and youthful vibe about it.  The staff in the bar area are younger and speak good English and has a good atmosphere.     I really liked the hotel and Kyoto in general!  The only negative some might have is that there is only a shower ( at least for my room), and no bath to relax in.

There was no dinner arranged for the group, so you make your own choice on where to go. Some stayed in the hotel and had food there.  I ventured out and after walking up and down a few streets searching, settled on an Italian taverna on the same street as the hotel. I was looking forward to having a non-fish course tonight. I had done a web search earlier of good restaurants near the hotel but hadn't got my bearings where they were. My recommendation would be to plan where to eat early.  However, I enjoyed my meal at the Italian place.  Then it was a short walk back to the hotel.

This was my favourite day in terms of sights and experiences, though everyone will have their own opinions on what they enjoyed most on the tour.

At the Moxy hotel, breakfast is served in the bar area, so it was very crowded and barely a spare seat. There are probably a lot of people coming and going, so I think even when breakfast opened at 06:30 it would be quite full.  When I left the hotel at 08:30 the area seemed quieter.

The bus picked us up outside the hotel and we were heading off to Kiyomizu-dera, a Buddhist temple listed in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It is a wooden structure also known as the 'Temple of the Pure Water Spring' on the hillside. The road leading up to it is very narrow and I was impressed with the driver's skills negotiating the route.  The bus parked in the parking area, and we made our way up a gently inclined street lined with shops towards the temple. It was early morning but the street (think it was named Matsubara-Dori) was lively with people, and what I was amazed with is that cars (taxis) would come down even though it was thronging with people, the drivers were very patient and went very slowly.

From the vantage point of the temple, you get a great view over the Kyoto skyline. One of the famous attractions of this temple is the Otowa Waterfall, where there is a wooden stage and water falls from above into three separate streams. Visitors can use the cups provided at the base of the waterfall to drink from them. Each of the streams is believed to have a different effect such as bringing success, love and longevity. You should only pick one of the three streams though, as it is considered greedy if you were to drink from all of them.  It wasn't clear to me which was which, that is something to ask the local guide.

As you walk around the area at your own pace, it is likely your earpiece will pop in and out of range of the tour director and local guide's microphone unless you stick relatively close to them.  So I suggest reading up a bit before you visit.   There is so much to walk around and explore, you can lose track of time.  Then it was back down the Matsubara-Dori street to peruse things to buy before getting back on the bus to head to the next destination.

We were heading to the Kizakura brewery in Kyoto to have lunch and do some Sake tasting. I had never tried Sake before so I was eager to give it a try. Once at the site you are giving a brief description of the family business, and there is a video to watch of the process of making Sake.  Then we were escorted to the dining area.  I must say it was a fantastic experience. There were two rows of tables and again we had exclusivity to the area. We sat down and there was a box in front of each of us and we lifted the lids to reveal the food dishes. There was your traditional Japanese fare, some raw fish, vegetables etc, the tour manager explained what it all was but I never noted it at the time. It was so beautifully presented, and on a personal level although not fine dining, it felt a very special experience to be part of.  You can sip the 2 small Sake tasters as you eat and they are very palatable I didn’t find them a strong taste.  The staff on hand came round and lit the flame to heat the stew dish which may been to compliment the sticky rice provided in a bowl.  One of the fundamental concepts in Japanese culture, 'mottainai', which is a feeling of regret at having wasted something. Hence the expectation is to try and clear your plate at mealtimes to not be rude.  However there was so much I couldn't manage everything and the offering was not what I am used to either but i tried my best.

After the meal it was off to the shop to view products on sale. I purchased some Sake and some beers then headed to the bus just after 13:30. The manager of the business came out to wave our bus off to our next destination, a nice traditional Japanese custom.

Next we were heading over to Uji for a tea ceremony.  I had misconceived ideas about the tea ceremony, it wasn't how I envisaged it but a lot of fun nonetheless.  We left the bus just after 2pm and walked through a pedestrianised street that has some quaint tea shops which gives you a feel for the area.  There was time to pick up some souvenirs and then walk to the Tea Museum was about 20 minutes away.  Once at the museum, there is a digital exhibition where you discover the inception and production process of Uji tea at Chazuna  ( i.e why some of the plantations are covered and some not).Then it is on to the Matcha tea demonstration.  The process of grinding the tea leaves in a mill takes a number of minutes.  The 30 of us were split into 2 groups to share the grinding which does take a bit of effort to crush the leaves into powder and you have to aim for a steady speed, otherwise you can get it clogged.   The demonstrators have good English and their passion for the tea is clearly exhibited.   They assist you in producing the end product.  Once you have tasted the product, (having never tried Matcha I wasn't super impressed but many rave about the medicinal properties),  it is then a walk back along the same route but stopping at the bus station at Uji Station.

The bus picked us up and then we were heading over to Fushi-imari, which was about a 30 minute drive late afternoon.  Once the bus dropped us off at a parking area we then walked past Senboninari railway station and up a slight incline. There were some lovely food aromas as you pass by shops on route, and the street was generally busy with people and the odd car driving slowly meandering down the road. I'd say you would be walking about 1km there and back, probably more if you go further than the Senbon Torii (Thousand Torii Gates).  However light was starting to reduce as it was getting towards dusk.  Fushi-imari - is where the fox statues are and we got some good pictures as dusk descended. Walking back to the bus was beautiful with the street lights coming on. 

It was after 6pm when we arrived back at the bus and almost dark and I think around 7pm when we got back to the hotel. The tour director offered the opportunity to go with them for dinner at an Okonomiyaki restaurant over in the Gion district,  and a good number of the group did.  They would go in a public bus, and posted a picture to show how crowded it was even though it was late evening. They returned around 10pm. By all accounts it was a good evening and something definitely to try if you don't have other plans. I stayed and had dinner in the hotel bar which was good value for money, then it was off to bed.

We left the hotel at approximately 08:30 and it was overcast with a hint of rain in the air.  By the time we got to Nara which I think was about an hour drive, it was warm and bright sunshine so I dispensed with my jumper. From the bus stop, there is a about a 15 minute stroll as you head to Todiji  temple.

As you walk along you see many deer in the park area, I even saw one crossing the road adhering to part of the pedestrian crossing as traffic waited. That may have been coincidence rather than intelligence though. 

The construction of Todiji temple was an attempt to imitate Chinese temples but there have been a number of reconstructions due to fire. There are two gold motifs at the top of the rooftop which represent fish, the reason being to symbolize water to protect against future fires. Inside, the Great Buddha statue is about 15m high and many pilgrims visit to seek spiritual awakening.  Also inside the temple there is a opening in a wooden column which is 37-centimeters wide, reported to be the same size as the Buddha's nostril.  It is said that if you can squeeze through the opening you'll be granted enlightenment in the next life.   I thought about giving it a go, but as i got closer I thought bravado was getting the better of me as the hole looked quite narrow. At least one person in our group tried it and didn’t get stuck.  Just consider your clothing on the day if you attempt it.

Outside the temple is Binzuru, a wooden sculpture wearing a red bib and cap. According to belief, if you rub the part of the sculpture that corresponds to the part of the body that is ailing, it will be cured.

After touring around the temple we passed some souvenir stalls and then back out through the Great South Gate (Nandaimon). This area was where there were many deer hanging around. The deer have been seen as heavenly animals protecting the city and the country. You can buy the deer biscuits from stalls for 200 or 500 yen (i think).   The deer know to hang around the stalls and are quick to follow you.  They are quite assertive and one was prodding me to feed it whereas others waited their turn, and there was some bowing displayed, but there were more interested in getting fed. I was glad once i had used up my biscuits and they could go and harass someone else. It wasn't the spiritual encounter with nature I envisaged.

We then had a pleasant 20-minute walk into the central area of Nara to visit the Arcade area with shops and get lunch. Some bought food from the supermarket, but there was also a Japanese burger restaurant in the Arcade which was popular. The bus picked us up from nearby the shopping area and we were then heading to Osaka, about a 30-minute drive away. 

The first stop was Osaka Castle built as a fortress but it has been destroyed multiple times.  We walked round the castle grounds where you can view the stone walls and moat surrounding the castle.  I didn’t go in to the museum nor castle which I think you can for a fee.  Apparently there is an observation deck up on the top floor of the castle, i don't think that was included as part of our tour.  It is quite a vast area so easy to get out of audio range from the tour director and guide's microphone, so it is possible I missed something.

We met at a rendez-vous point and then walked round the grounds to the coach pickup point.   Then it was onto the bus and we headed to the Umeda Sky building, which probably took about 20 minutes with the traffic as it was now a Friday afternoon. The Umeda building is a combination of business offices and a tourist attraction.  You get the lift up to the 35th floor, and from there you take the escalator which is inside a transparent tube covering you from the elements which connects the two towers. I believe these are the two highest suspended escalators in the world.  From there you go up an internal escalator and lift or some stairs (or lift) to reach the 39th and 40th floors where you are on the floating garden observatory, an open-air viewing deck 173m high.   You can walk round to get a nice panoramic view of the Osaka skyline.  It was a clear day when we were up, and it was fairly gentle and peaceful up there, though a very slight breeze at times. There is a cafe on the 39th floor but I didn’t have time to check it out. It was back down to the escalator, and then queue for the lift to get back to ground floor.        

Next we were on the bus again for a short drive to Dotonbori street.   We didn’t have long here, about 45 minutes. You walk along the main thoroughfare with shops lining you either side.  There are vibrant lights and the aroma of street food follows you during the walk. It was a Friday evening and was really busy.  We walked over to the famous Glico Running Man landmark, a giant billboard featuring a triumphant runner with their arms raised, for a group photo. I heard the brand was famous for producing caramel confectionary and believe you can buy them near the sign. Then we made our way back to the bridge over the canal to be collected by the coach.  The sun was just starting to set and it would be about an hours drive back to the hotel in Kyoto. I would have liked to have been able to spend a whole day in Osaka to be honest as there was so much we didn't get to explore, such going on a short cruise on the river.

Once back at the hotel, we had a bit of time to freshen up before we met in the lobby to go out for dinner. We had a tour booking at the Yakitori Torikizoku Nijo restaurant just round the corner from the hotel. and we sat in tables of 5. The first serving was for grilled chicken skewers which were delicious. There were some other dishes provided but the great feature of this meal is that you can order anything you want on the menu using the computer tablet at your table. It was a lot of fun, and the food and drinks are all included. I even managed some space for dessert. I think everyone really enjoyed this restaurant. Then after the meal it was back to the hotel to use up my drink voucher and I went for a short stroll around the streets near the hotel.  Japan feels a very safe area to explore even at night.  Soon I was back to the hotel room to pack the suitcase and prepare the overnight bag for the next day.  The suitcase was left in the lobby in the evening or again you can put it down early morning.

We had a little bit of a longer lie in and we left the hotel at 09:15.  The luggage was still in place waiting to be collected.  It was a short couple of minutes walk to Nijo station to get on a local train to Kyoto station.  The 30 of us plus the tour director and local guide separated out to various carriage boarding points marked on the concrete and waited for the train to arrive. The tour director was in a different carriage but over the audio earpiece I could listen to them tell us when to get off which was the 2nd stop I think.

Once at Kyoto station, we made our way as a group to the platform for the Bullet train.   There was one Bullet train which arrived at the platform before ours, so we got some pictures and waited for it to depart before we were organised in groups of 3+2 so we could board the next train in a prompt manner.  I believe the distance covered was greater than the first journey from Atami, but as this one is the express train it did not have as many stops so only took about 2.5 hours.

Once we arrived at Hiroshima we left the station and headed directly to the right along a footpath to a studio run by the Okosta sauce company where you get hands-on experience to make your own Okonomiyaki pancake.  There are demonstrators who do a great job of showing you the process. Even I was able to make it and it did resemble what the instructor created. It is healthy and really delicious. Is a big eat, so I suggest no snacking on the train on the way.  It must be a popular venue, as there is even a photo of one of our former Prime Minister there by the door. They had stopped off when they were in the area for a global summit.

We left the studio at about 13:45 and we met up with the bus in the station carpark.  Then we were on route to the ferry point to Mijajima island arriving some time after 14:30. From Miyajimaguchi we boarded a JR Pass Miyajima ferry which has the red and white hull and run every 15 minutes.  Those ones get closer to the floating Tori gate than the regular ferry apparently. It was a nice boat trip, lasting about 10 minutes. From the deck as we approached the island we could see that the tide was out so the Tori gate was not floating.  After disembarking the ferry, we walked round to the Floating gate. There are some deer wandering around but they are not as brazen as the ones in Nara and will leave you alone.  You shouldn't feed the deer here.

With the tide out you could walk down to it on the beach, but I don't think anyone from our group did.  We then walked over to the Itsukushima Shrine.  Standing in front of it and looking back towards the mainland, there is a large white building midway up the hillside.  Disappointingly our guide could not elaborate of the history about the "white building" so it was left to our tour director to fill us in on the controversy about the building which she did very well.  We then were able to roam freely around the island. 

I headed up the hill a bit and used the facilities at the Miyajima Urban Development Community Center. I think there was a coffee shop in Machiya Street that a number of the group went to, possibly it was Cafe Hayashiya.

From Tonooka Hill you get a view over rooftops across the sea to the mainland. I then took a woodland path that joined onto Uguisu Hodo street, but as I didnt know where it was going or how long it would take, I headed back the same way I came.  Even though you have a map , I find it easy to get disorientated especially if signs are not in English. Heading back towards the ferry I did manage to find a vending machine selling cans of beer, which is apparently not that common now.  There was no need for ID and I remember thinking at the time how remarkably cheap it was and how that would never be possible in the UK.  I recall it was only about 250Yen a can.  

I think it was about 17:50 when we got the boat back to the mainland.   I can't recall when we arrived at the ANA Crowne Plaza Hiroshima hotel, but collected our keys and went up to the room to freshen up for dinner at 19:30.  There was not a set table for our whole group, so you sat at a free table with who you could from our group. It was a buffet style dinner with a lot of variety but not as good quality as some of the meals we had in my opinion.

I went for an evening stroll after dinner, and then headed to the bar for a nightcap.  I was not impressed by the service, the bar staff were making up drinks and it must have taken about 10 minutes to get served and the place wasn't busy. Once I got my drink it was a bit disappointing. I ordered a cocktail but it was served with ginger ale rather than ginger beer, so not the traditional version I expected.

The hotel room and bathroom was very nice however.  Someone in the group also ordered a massage through the hotel which they rated highly.  Well worth it if you are feeling leg weary from a lot of walking.

Breakfast was served in the same dining area on the ground floor.

After breakfast we met in the foyer before 8am and could place our overnight bags onto the coach, and then we had a short walk from the hotel to the Hiroshima Peace park. It was raining in the morning as we walked through the peace park, made it all the more poignant and sombre atmosphere.  The landmarks we visited were the A-Bomb Dome, Peace Bell, Children's Peace Monument with the paper cranes, Flame of Peace and the Memorial Museum.  

We met up with the bus again and then went to the Shukkeien Garden. The name translates as "shrunken scenery garden".  It is a very tranquil area and lovely to walk through with many beautiful trees and shrubs, and a large pond. There is even meant to be a miniature Mount Fuji.  Severely damaged in the atomic bombing, it is thought that at least one or more of the trees managed to regrow after the bombing.

We were then back on the coach and heading to our next stop. We stopped off at Takayacho Kodani for lunch. There were a number of places to eat, including your typical global coffee outlet.  Then we were back on the road heading to Kurashiki.  Kurashiki is a quaint town known for its charming canal area and cultural heritage.  The historical quarter was where the bus parked up. We were then free to walk around the area after a brief overview from the tour director. Apparently there were some cos-play characters wandering around which added to the vibe around the place.There is plenty to see. I didn’t venture into the Ohara Meseum of Art, but you can enter for a fee. I walked up to the Achi shrine and from that vantage point you could get a nice view of the town which was larger than first anticipated when driving in. I'd say there was a nice ambience about the whole area and I really liked walking around but make sure to have comfy shoes as you could be out and about for a few hours.

Soon we were back on the coach and heading to Okayama which I think was about a 45-minute drive away. I think we got to the hotel, Hotel Granvia Okayama,  around 6pm, and we were reunited with our suitcases.  The hotel staff gave us a little bag with our key and some confectionery treats as well as a drink voucher for the downstairs bar which was a nice touch. I heard from the tour director it may close early, so you may want to use the voucher for an aperitif before dinner.

Dinner was in one of the hotel's restaurants named "Applause" which is in the style of a Japanese/western-style restaurant on the 19th floor at 7pm. The dinner was very nice, the best meal yet and the setting was quite opulent. We had seats set aside for our group with approximately 3-5 per table. The night-time view overlooking the city was very picturesque.  You settled your individual drinks bill if you had any, and then vacated the restaurant. I believe the ground floor bar had closed after dinner, so I went out for a walk round the streets nearby and then headed back to retire to my room.

Breakfast was served in the same location on the 19th floor.

After breakfast we took our suitcases down to the foyer, hand in our room cards, and waited to board the bus at 08:30. There was a large seating in the reception area of the Okayama hotel which is very classy.

I think we got to Himeji castle shortly after 10am, and after being escorted round the castle grounds by the tour director we were then able to explore as we wished. The "White-Heron" as it is known,  is an elegant fortress. It has managed to survive WWII and earthquakes and symbolizes resilience. I went up inside the castle where you can get some nice views of the city, but the windows do have grilles so it is not completely unobstructed.  You need to take you shoes off inside the castle and carry them in a plastic bag which is provided.  The stairs up the 6 floors are steep, so it is not for everyone.  

Once back down, I headed out of the castle grounds and over to Koko-en garden which is included as part of your castle ticket. It is a traditional Japanese garden with ponds and walled areas. I didn't know at the time, but apparently there is a central tea-house where you can get matcha tea and sweets for a fee and you don’t need to book in advance.  The garden area is very tranquil and nice to walk around. Alternatively there is a moat around the castle and for a fee you can go around on a moat cruise. There is also a zoo in the grounds of Himeji too which you can visit to for a small fee.

A few of us then walked into the shopping area of town and went to Harry & Marie cafe for coffee and cake. There was time for souvenir shopping and then headed back to where the bus was parked.  We left Himeji about 13:15 and were next on route to Kobe.  The drive was just over an hour, so we got to the hotel around 14:30 - 15:00.  As we were having dinner at 5:30pm, it was not worthwhile going out, so it was up to the room, have a bath and then get ready. 

The Kobe Portopia Hotel was another great hotel. It is set over two wings, but interconnected by large lobby and there is a convenience store,  clothes shop, souvenir shop and restaurant all in the hotel footprint.  My hotel room was in the south wing, so it was about a 5 minute walk to get to the other wing and get the lift to the 30th floor for the restaurant.  It was a buffet and we had the place to ourselves initially. The food was good, and the view over Kobe was stunning, as the sun set and the skyline became illuminated and you could see the large Kobe sign lit up on the hillside.  Echoing modern technology, there was even a robot on the floor which was carrying a stack of plates presumably back to the kitchen to be cleaned.  I must also add that you should check out the toilets on the 30th floor, they are a bit different, "a room with a view".

At 19:45 the tour director invited anyne to join them fom the group on a short walk over to the "Be Kobe" sign where you could take pictures across the bay.  Once we were back, some of us headed back up to the hotel bar on the 30th floor for a drink, sad in the knowledge the tour was almost over. This is another hotel where you can order a room massage or as the Japanese translates as “relax service”. This hotel really does have everything you will need.

We had the morning free to ourselves, but you must check out of the room by 11am. I had an early breakfast and then went back to the room to pack everything and take my suitcase to the foyer and left it at the JY sign. I checked out of the room at reception, and then waited on the shuttle bus to arrive. 

As the Portopia Hotel is on an artificial island on the way to Kobe airport, it is not central for shopping/sight-seeing. The hotel run a free shuttle bus every 20 minutes which takes you to and from the city shopping area ( Sannomiya) or Shinkobe station.  I wanted to go the Herb Garden for views over the city so got the 0920 shuttle bus to Shinkobe station. From there it is a short walk where you can access the cable car to the Herb Garden.

I had bought my ticket online in advance to departing from the UK.  However as it was still early, there was no queue to buy tickets, it is probably easier just to buy a ticket when you get there. The full ride takes about 10 minutes and rises approximately 330m. At the summit of the herb garden there is a restaurant and some stalls for food though the restaurant hadn't opened as it was still early in the morning.  You can use the herb scents to make your own perfume I believe at one shop.  After taking some nice photos, myself and another person from the tour walked downhill to the intermediate station then got on a cable-car to the base station. From there we walked back to Shinkobe station and got the shuttlebus back to the hotel.

We got back to the hotel around midday. Many of the group were seated in a lounge area which is quite large and includes a water feature.  We waited to depart for Kansai airport ( Osaka) leaving at approximately 13:20. The tour director helped get us checked-in at the airport which was quite busy.   Security took quite a while to get through, but as expected the staff were all very polite in their mannerisms.

Our flight would leave a bit later than scheduled by 30 minutes, and the flight duration was just over 3.5 hours to Hong Kong. The aircraft would be an Airbus A350-1000 (B-LXE) which was a relatively new plane.  The entertainment on offer would be more than sufficient and helped pass the time. My seating companion managed to find the BBC News Channel, which oddly I couldn't find on the 2nd flight. The meal was also very good quality. We landed in HKG at 20:50 which was bang on schedule.  After alighting at the gate our group then had to go through security again which didn’t take as long as at KIX. You can take an empty drinks bottle through security, and then fill it with water once beyond it.  Our flight was scheduled to depart at 23:15, but it actually left 15 minutes later.  Once I was boarding, I was please to find that our plane (B777-300ER B-KPF) had indeed been upgraded to the new Aria suites!! I settled into my seat in Premium economy ready for our expected 14-hour flight.  The return flight is longer on the way back to London due to the headwinds.  We received a complimentary glass of Prosecco, and then we were off in the air.   Again, the food service was great and the flight crew very professional.

It would be early the next morning at 06:15 when we arrived, slightly earlier than scheduled so it was only a 13h45m flight!  We made our way to the baggage collection area and then said our farewells and made our own journey’s home. Our great Japanese adventure was over.

*Tour Manager Sarah W. was excellent and looked after us so well.  I found the lovely review she delivered on the coach as we headed to Osaka airport about what we saw/did each day quite emotional. 

*Itinerary was full and varied.

*The hotels were all very good.

*Super restaurant in Kyoto.

*Make your own Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima a fun experience.

*Amazing brewery visit with the superb food service.

*Great group of people on the tour.

*Fabulous weather, especially for the Mount Fuji views. Shame due to snowfall the previous week we could not get to the Mount Fuji 5th Station viewing area but we got lots of different vantage points of Mount Fuji during the trip.

*Bus drivers in the main were very polite and skilled.

* Clean streets ; polite hosts  

Tour Lowlights

- My biggest disappointment were the 2 local guides.  One marginally better than the other. They were difficult to understand as their English was not the best. I didn’t find them engaging about the subject matter, they read from notes and did not project their voice well. I would have preferred younger guides who typically have better English and have more spirit about them.

- I would have preferred another free day in Tokyo, or a full day in Osaka because the days are quite intense after a lot of initial travelling. I heard there used to be a Hong Kong add-on which might have been an interesting addition to the trip.

- Lounge ticket cancelled at Heathrow.

Questions?

If you have any questions about the tour just ask.